WINTER 2011
BRITISH GUARDS MONUMENT, LEEDS,
YORKSHIRE
Last October our hard working Chairman flew from Madrid
to Manchester & so to his native city of Leeds, for a rewarding
break, staying with old friends. On the list of things he wanted
to do was to visit Leeds Parish Church. Apparently he came accross
a mention that the church has a marble monument to two Leeds men
who were young officers in the Guards regiments and both killed at
the Battle of Talavera. On his visit he met the Verger, Ms. Ann
Clarke, who kindly took him to the very imprssive monument with a
statue of a weeping angel and below the names of Captains Beckett
& Walker.
The Verger mentioned that the monument was
in need of restoration and that the andel had a finger missing.
Never one to sigh and walk away from anything Wellingtonian, our
Chairman, according to him, made a promise that the Society would
prepare a project to find funds through donations, and to have it
looking new once again. Hopefully the plans will be revealed in
our next Newsletter.
GEORGE BORROW REMEMBERED
George Borrow was an Englidh traveller &
writer in the 19th century and came to Spain in 1836, finally
departing in January, 1840. His base was in Madrid at number 16
Calle Santiago. The Society contacted a number of Spanish
historians and it was agreed that we should work together
and unveil a plaque to Borrow. We already offer a Theme Tour of
him in the capital but a plaque outside his home was a fitting way
to celebrate the 175th anniversary of his arrival here.
See on our facebook (facebook.com/wellsoc)
for photos of the unveiling and the articles in the British press.
Even though it was a cold early Christmas Eve you will see a hardy
lot of historians smiling and pointing up above the main doorway
at the plaque. It was then off just two doors to celebrate at
Maximillian, one of our favourite taverns.
BANGERS & MASH
For the third Christmas running we, the
behind the scenes Society staff, were invited to the Chairmanīs
home for his famous Bangers & Mash luncheon. Here he introduced us
all to his new lady friend, Elizabeth from New York.
Laughter, good company, excellent home-cooking, fine Spanish wines
and Simon (our computer expert) who brought his dear partner from
China along who sang love songs (very appropriate) in Chinese. We
drank to absent friends, to the new year and to health and
happiness to all our members. Photos will be on the Society
facebook very soon!
ADIOS 2011
And so we say farewell to 2011. So much has
been accomplished thanks to the efforts of all who are involved
with the Society. May you all have a peaceful Christmas and a
rewarding 2012.
SUMMER 2011
WEEKEND TOUR TO PAMPLONA
we escaped the heat of Madrid and took the
high-speed train north to the Provience of Navarra and Pamplona at
the foot of the Pyrenees. A delightful journey of just 3 hours
through beautiful countryside. Our group of six and led by our
ever enthusiastic Chairman, spent two nights three days exploring
this famous walled city with narrow cobbled streets and a dozen
tapas bars in every street (or so it seemed).
This tour was divided into four sections:
-
A singular walking tour to the southern
end of the city and the magnificent bastion, walled defences,
some of the finest in all of Spain. So strong were they in
1813, that Wellington realized that a siege proper would be
out of the question so, with time on his hands, he decided to
starve the French garrison out. Apparently these soldiers of
Napoleon ate every animal (we wonīt go into detail!) save the
governorīs horse then they surrendered, leaving the mighty
walls untouched for us to enjoy today.
-
A half day visit to the quaint hamlet
of Sorauren where Lord Wellington defeated Marshal Soultīs
desperate attempt to raise the siege of Pamplona on 28 July,
1813. Our hardy group hiked up to īColeīs Ridge for a
magnificent panoramic view of the Pyrenees and France in the
distance before returning for a homemade meal at Don Vicenteīs
stone & timber tavern. His neighbour, Don Primitivo Garcia,
gave us a wonderful tour of his 18th century house and his
collection of artifacts from the battle, some were discovered
within a wall he had pulled down so untouched from the
elements for 200 years!
-
When in Pamplona we always pay our
respects to Don Ernesto Hemingway starting with a visit to the
bull-ring and the two monuments there of the maestro. Then
drinks in his favourite tavern in the Plaza Mayor and a visit
to the room dedicated to him. No we didnīt run with the bulls,
that was the month before.
-
Lunch at the Societyīs very own
favourite restaurant run, as always, by the smiling Lourdes.
Menu of the Day is 17 Euros but worth every, er, euro. The
finest meal in Pamplona. A wonderful time was had by all.
SALAMANCA REVISITED
We are now offering a weekend theme Tour
titled, 800 Year History Experience which includes a morning
walking tour starting in the great Plaza Mayor at the
bust/medallion of the greatest of Spainīs warriors, El Cid, from
there to the Hapsburgs, Bourbons, Lord Wellington and even a
mention at Franco (now protected by plastic covering as some seem
to delight at throwing paint at him). This part of the tour
finishes with a visit to the two Cathedrals.
Our evening is dedicated to sampling local
wines and tapas from goat cheese, cured hams (the city is famous
for this) grilled wild giant mushrooms and an amazing choice of
tapas at Casa Paca.
The next morning we have a 5 star buffet
breakfast at one of the cityīs finest hotels as the owner is a
dear friend of our Chairman. We donīt really know how many fine
friends our Chairman has as he keeps it a secret!
ARANJUEZ THEME TOUR
Now that the new train leaves from downtown
Puerta del Sol to the Royal Gardens at Arenjuez we were very
pleased to do our new Theme Tour there for new members, a family
of five in late June. The state of the arts train goes direct and
takes just 45 minutes. It is a much laid back tour with visits to
the Royal gardens, Royal Palace (the Bourbons referred to it as
their modest Hunting Lodge). Lunch, as always, is at the Rena
Verde restaurant on the banks of the River Tagus. menu of the Day
is 15 Euros with many first & main course dishes to choose from
including turkey leg in almond sauce. This theme Tour is up and
running on our web site so please check it out.
WINE TASTING
The Society has added three new taverns to
our much famed wine tasting in Madridīs old quarter, including an
old coaching Inn, closed for decades until earlier this year when,
after much restoration, it opened to the public with glass roof
over the old patio. Members sample the Madrid provience wines and
Manchego cheese. We finish this 4 hour tour with reserva Rioja at
the famous Pinkletonīs winery in the refurbished San Miguel
Market. Our Chairman reports that he is now a member of
Pinkletonīs and has been flashing his wine card around!
SPRING 2011
HEMINGWAY REMEMBERED
And so it fell to the Wellington Society to be asked to prepare the
framed photo cum plaque to be unveiled in the great writer's
favourite tavern, the famous Cerveceria Alemana in the Plaza Santa
Ana this January. It was to mark the 50th anniversary of his
untimely death and many of his readers were there to witness this
historic occasion. The picture of 'Don Ernesto' as the Spaniards
still affectionately call him, hangs on the wall in the bay-window
where he loved to hold court in the late 1950s.
The Society
invited Professor Ramon Buckley to unveil the plaque as his
father, the late Henry Buckley, was one of Hemingway's closet
friends and fellow journalists reporting the Spanish Civil War
whilst in Madrid back in 1937. It was a wonderful moment to see
Ramon (now in his late 60s!) standing on the chair, giving the
Republican clenched fist salute, as his father had done, and
shouting "Viva Hemingway! Viva la Republica!"
The family owners
of the Alemana invited all to tapas and drinks but as we were so
many (truth be known the place was packed with Hem aficionados) we
all tossed in Euros for such was this most enjoyable event.
NEW YORK TIMES SEEKS OUT OUR CHAIRMAN
Such is the interest
in our Hemingway's Madrid Theme Tour that the New York Times
contacted our Chairman with the view of using his knowledge to
follow in the great writer's footsteps in downtown Madrid for an
article in their travel section. Such was our Chairman's response
that the NYT journalist wrote many of his anecdotes while enjoying
a Vino in the oldest sherry tavern. You can read the full article
by clicking
here or from our web site home page. The response from our
Members in the States congratulating us has been overwhelming, so
here a chance to thank you all for your kind comments. The
Chairman is still glowing in the glory of it all!
SPANISH
- PORTUGUESE BORDER CAMPAIGNS. 1810-1812
For the second
year running the Ormonde Military History Society of Ireland
sought our services for an 8 day Peninsular War tour. Last year we
took them on a long tour to the north of Spain & the Pryeness
campaigns of 1813, this time the campaigns that were fought either
side of the border. We met the group at Barajas airport and, in
private bus; we whisked them off first to meet our friend Nicola
Thorton at the medieval town of Toro. Nicola, export director of a
famous winery, gave us a detailed tour and wine tasting before a
delightful lunch overlooking the River Duero....quite a stunning
view!
Our tour continued for a week as we visited the great
university city of Salamanca and the famous battlefield which the
Society has fought so hard to protect/ Then to Ciudad Rodrigo for
two wonderful days basking in history and the peaceful
surroundings of this ancient walled town. Crossing the border we
ate a delicious meal at our friend's Portuguese family run
restaurant by the walls of the great star fort of Almeida.
We
headed south to Badajoz and Albuera before once again entering
Portugal for a morning's stroll through the whitewashed fortified
town of Elvas. The itinerary we carefully prepared which included
a visit to the impressive Roman museum at Merida before moving
northwards to the famous Conquesta town of Trujillo for a never to
be forgotten lunch.....our Irish friends are still talking about
it! We had the luxury of an overnight stay at one of the country's
finest Paradors at Oropesa before our last stop at the famous
ceramic town of Talavera where General Wellesley earned the title
'Wellington' after his victory over the French in the summer of
1809.
SINGLE TRAVELER TOUR
From this January, the
Society is offering tours for the solo travelers. Here is a very
thoughtful email from our first solo traveler:
Hello Chairman,
I just
wanted to let you know that I absolutely loved the tour
this afternoon and have not been able to stop talking
about it to my friends and family. I think it is the
perfect activity for traveling history students, food and
wine enthusiasts, art and architecture buffs, or just
generally weird and interesting people who like to do
unusual things. I particularly recommend it for
people who are traveling alone (as grad students on
research trips often have to do) because I truly felt like
I had an old friend to show me around town who shares my
interests. Grad students don't tend to have a lot of
extra money lying around, but I honestly believe that
there would be no way to get an experience anything like
this tour for 50 euros. As a tourist, it's almost
impossible to spend four hours anywhere without spending
more money than that. So, not only is it worth the
price, but (clearly) I thought it was worth even more.
It's an afternoon I will never forget, which is what
traveling should be all about. Feel free to quote me
on any of that, and I've included my favorite picture from
today that you are also welcome to use as you wish.
Thanks again and I hope to see you again sometime if I
ever have the great fortune to be back in Madrid.
-
Jessica Schink |
ADIOS MAESTRO
We were all deeply saddened to
hear of the passing away of one of our most generous patrons, Don
Damaso Alvero Montiaguedo-Riz in late January. Always
affectionately known as 'Maestro' (he was a senior professor with
our Chairman for many years at Madrid Campus for US study abroad
students). He was a major donator for the Wellington Society's
Peninsular War library and on many occasions paid for our Chairman
to travel with him to London where many hours were spent in the
history section of the bookshops around Leicester Square. He was a
very colourful and kind Spanish gentleman and he will be sorely
missed by one and al who knew him.
