Discovery: MADRID

Courtesy of The Wellington Society of Madrid

FROM PLAZA DE ORIENTE TO PUERTA DEL SOL

In 1811, King Joseph Bonaparte, elder brother of Napoleon, was on the Spanish throne. Nicknamed 'The Intruder' king by his less than loyal subjects, his popularity diminished even more so when he ordered the demolition of more than 100 dwellings to make way for this plaza and gardens in front of his royal residence.

The statue in the middle is of the most immoral of all Spain's Hapsburg kings, Philip IV. From here, facing the royal palace, we turn right and head off to the adjacent square and the newly restored statue of a soldier of the Royal 3rd Regiment. Luis Noval saved many of his comrades lives at the cost of his own during a very bloody campaign in North Africa. Captured by the enemy they offered to spare his life if he took them to his regiment's lines for a surprise night attack. He agreed to do so but as they neared the camp he shouted a warning to his own men. The attack was beaten off but Noval's body was later found riddled with Spanish bullets.

Behind this statue is the Real Monasterio de Encarnacion and plaza of that name. In 1611 Queen Margarita, the homesick wife of the Hapsburg Philip III, had the convent built to accommodate her own French nuns. The convent is now open to the public at uncertain hours but definitely worth the visit. The church next door (reformed in the mid 18th century) is a delight to see: creamy and pastel colored walls with natural light entering from dome windows make the interior a cheery place to enter.

In the square stands a statue of one of Spain's greatest playwrights. Lope de Vega, who, with a brilliant command of the language and ready wit, was more than a match for the censors of the Inquisition of the 17th century. The titles of four of his most accomplished works are on the reverse base of the statue.

At the corner of the church we turn left into the Calle de la Encarnacion. At the far end is the Senate (Senado); a friendly policeman will allow you to walk into the courtyard to get a closer look at one of the most imposing statues in the capital: Canovas del Castillo stands atop an ornate stone pillar. For all his efforts throughout his political career, he was gunned down by an Italian anarchist on 8 August 1897.

Continuing our walk up the hill, (passing three restaurants the last, El Buey, being famous for its steaks) we come to an ugly, sinister looking brick building on the corner of plaza de la Marina and Calle Torija. Pause awhile by the steps, for the plaque on the left hand side will tell you that this was, in fact, the House of the Inquisition until it was finally closed in 1820. Opposite is the Cafe de Chinitas, the famous flamenco place which offers dinners and shows until the early hours. Turn right here down Calle Fomento and again first right on Calle Bola (Ball Street). Apparently there was an enormous stone ball on the kerb here for years and years. Legend has it that nobody knew who put it there and now today nobody knows who took it away!

On the left is a cozy little Argentinean restaurant 'La Pampa' (menu of the day 1.600pts). Further down on the right is `La Bola', one of the city's truly traditional eating houses (cocido a la madrilena, 1.975pts, is not only their speciality but a must for the hungry traveler). El Mollete, opposite, is a clean, quiet tapas bar. Now at the end of Calle Bola, on the right is Alambique. You might spend as much time staring through the window as you will browsing around inside; an amazing place for buying knick knacks for the kitchen, dinner service or wine cellar.

Walk down a few paces to the Calle Arrieta (named after Emilio Arrieta, a most respected musician and composer from the province of Navarra who died in Madrid in 1894. Turn left and walk towards the Plaza de Isabel II. On the wall to your left is a plaque outside the house of one Jose garcia Vara, a fascist who was assassinated by Republicans in 1935.

Queen Isabel I, whose statue stands in the plaza of that name (cleaned and restored Fall 1998), was, after a scandalous reign, told to take a foreign holiday by her Parliament in 1868 and not to bother returning. On the far side of the square, behind sweet Isabel, is the Real Cinema and to its left a narrow street, Calle Priora. Go up here to the end and then turn left on Calle Contanila de los Angeles. Cross over and stop at the blue fronted restaurant (El Pato Mudo, the mute duck). In the window the menu boasts 15 rice dishes (minimum 2 persons) and half the price of the more famous rice restaurants in Madrid.

Turn first right to Calle de las Conchas (so called because once there was a house of conchas, shells, which served as a hospital for suffering pilgrims). At the end, sharp right and it is rest time in the finest tapas bar ever! I refer to the Casa Parrondo (Calle Trujillos). Ask for sidra (cider) and watch them pour it from a bottle from arms length above their heads! All the tapas on show are wonderfull....we have tasted them all. Members of our Society get extra FREE tapas....worth joining for that alone!

Once you've had your fill, continue right when outside the tapas bar and first left on Travesia de Trujillo and the Plaza de San Martin (you can see San Martin on a white horse cutting his cape in two to share with the naked beggar...this new ceramic street sign is on the left). Behind you is one of the most famous antiquarian bookshops in Spain, Luis Baron.

To our front however is our next stop, the Descalzas convent. Holy relics, paintings and all the Hapsburg trappings await you inside. Limited opening hours and queues are such that you may have to return a couple of times before they open the doors to the public. In 1559 Philip II's sister, Juanna, transformed this convent into comfortable residence. It was here in 1603 that the Empress Maria of Austria died.

To our front observe the big department store, El Corte Ingles. As we head towards it our attention is arrested by a magnificent 18th century stone doorway designed by Pedro de Ribiera.

Now, almost in front of the Corte Ingles turn right and take the second street on the left on Calle Tetuan. Soon, on the right, you will reach the popular 'Casa Labra' which has been serving up wines and deep fried cod (bacalao) since it opened in 1860. The plaque up on the left tells us that it was here that the socialist party PSOE was secretly formed in 1879. One hundred years later they became, for the first time, the government in power in Spain. Walk up to the corner, turn right and you will find yourself back in the Puerta del Sol. We trust you enjoyed the historical tour but next time, join the Wellington Society and come with us and listen to our wonderful anecdotes!

PUERTA DEL SOL TO THE ROYAL PALACE

The Puerta del Sol was widened and completely rebuilt in the mid 19th century. From the statue of Charles 111 in the center we begin our walk. Charles the Third is usually referred to as "The best mayor of Madrid" because of all the improvements carried out throughout the city during his reign. Facing him is the Correos building, or post office, which he had built in the mid 18th century. On the wall to the right of the main entrance is a plaque to showing where the war against Napoleon started on the 2nd May, 1808. At the corner of this building turn left on Calle Correo and walk up to the tiny Plaza Pontejos (an old mayor of the city and founder of the first savings bank). At the top go right along Calle Marques de Pontejos, passing some of the finest linen shops in the city (much cheaper than the touristy places). At the corner go up the hill on Calle Esparteros. To your front is the imposing building with four Hapsburg style towers. This is now the Ministry of Foreign Affairs but it was originally built in the 17th century as the city prison. It was within these walls that the English traveler, George Borrow was imprisoned in May, 1838, which he describes in great detail in his book The Bible in Spain (see our walking tour of George Borrow).

Turn right and enter the Plaza Mayor through Calle Gerona. The famous hatters, 'Ferquin' is on the corner to the right. Much has been written of this magnificent square built during the reign of the Hapsburg Philip III, whose statue stands in the center. Here since the early 17th century there have been bull-fights, public executions, festivals and the burning of heretics by the Inquisition. We leave the Plaza Mayor by the far exit at the top left hand corner and down the steps where we reach the restaurant Luis Candelas, a local hero who robbed the rich, gave some to the poor and cheated on his many lovers one of whom betrayed him to the police. For a fuller story of his colorful life see his history which is in cartoon form on the wall in the bar room. Crossing the road turn right by the new wine tavern 'Maestro Villa' and you will find yourself in a tiny square (Plaza Conde de Barajas). Here on Sunday mornings young Spanish artists offer their latest works for the general public. At the far end go right up to the Plazuela del Conde de Miranda. The newly restored red brick building to your front is the church of 'Las Carboneras' and convent of Jeronimas del Corpus Christi. Built between 1615 & 1625, and nuns still occupy the convent.

Follow the narrow street (Calle del Codo) which will bring you out in the delightful square of the Plaza de la Villa. To your front is the town hall and the statue by the flower garden is the great warrior Alvaro de Bazan who was instrumental in the Christian victory over the Muslims at the naval battle of Lepanto in 1571.Turn and look up at the Moorish style tower which was once housed a captured French king in the 16th century. Go up to the main road (Calle Mayor) and walk down, stopping opposite number 84 where, on the 31st May, 1906 an anarchist threw a bomb from a fifth floor balcony in a murderous attempt to kill the king & queen on their wedding day. A monument opposite reminds the passer by of the bloody event. Although many spectators were killed or maimed the young royal newly weds survived. Now at the end of the street turn left on Calle Bailen, named after Spain's victory over one of Napoleon's armies in the south of Spain at the beginning of the Peninsular War (1808). To your front is the new cathedral and the Royal Palace. Our historical tour ends here in the Plaza de Oriente.